Van Dycks

I know I'm not alone when I confess that I look at a plant catalog like a glutton at a smorgasbord. I help myself to one of everything with no regard for the actual work involved in planting them properly. As surely as the sun doth rise, though, those plants arrive on my doorstep and I haven't done a thing to prepare for them.

There is a strong temptation to simply jab the little suckers in the ground and move on to more entertaining garden tasks. But I know perfectly well that the secret of successful gardening is proper bed preparation. And so, I postpone procrastination to another day and undertake work that will be much more rewarding.

The first step is to take a serious look at what plants will be arriving soon. Pay close attention to the conditions they require to grow. Do they need lots of sun or do they take shade? Do they thrive in dry soil or boggy conditions? It is imperative that you pay attention to the growing recommendations, trying to fight them is a losing battle. What a disappointment to set your heart on the gorgeous Echinacea 'Razzmatazz' only to find it drowned because it was planted by the gutter's downspout! Start the plants off right by planting them in locations that most closely match their ideal growing conditions.

Our catalog lists great tips on the growing conditions that each plant needs. Check out the Garden Guide that arrives with your order, it's overflowing with planting advice for each of our plants. Enquiring minds can also check out the internet for even more growing information.

Now that you've chosen the proper site for your new plant, it's time to evaluate the soil. Take a handful of soil and squeeze and release your fist. If the soil stays in a tight ball, you have heavy clay that will impede drainage and root growth. If the soil sifts through your fingers too easily you have a sandy soil that will benefit from the addition of organic matter.

Compost is a miracle worker in the garden. It stabilizes the soil's drainage and moisture holding capacities. It helps regulate soil temperatures. It loosens compacted soils and promotes root growth. And, of course, it provides nutrients the plants need to grow healthily.

Adding small sized gravel - called sharp gravel - helps alleviate excessively wet soil conditions. Of course, in step one you made sure that you're not going to put a plant that prefers dry soil in a wet garden area, didn't you? Ah well, it's human nature to battle the elements!

Once the compost and gravel have been added it's important to work it down into the soil. Use a mini-tiller or garden fork to work it to a suitable depth. If you're planting bulbs, incorporate the amendments to a point slightly deeper than the recommended planting depth - this will give the bulb's roots something to grow into. Working the soil to a depth of about a foot should be fine for most perennials. Take care not to overwork the soil. This will break soil particles apart into too fine a texture which will act like cement when water is added.

Finally, you're ready to put the plant into the ground! Follow the recommended planting depth for bulbs. Planting them too deep can make it impossible for them to reach the surface. Bulbs that voles and squirrels find particularly delectable will benefit from an extra handful of gravel in the planting hole or a coating of Hot Pepper Wax.

Perennials should be planted at the same depth they were when they were in the pot. In other words, the root ball should not stick up out of the ground and it shouldn't be submerged in garden soil either. Gently firm the soil around the root ball to ensure good contact all around, air pockets underground will make it impossible for roots to take up water or nutrients.

At this point you might think you're finished, but you're not. First and foremost, label the plant at the spot where you planted it. A bulb or dormant plant can quickly be lost in the garden. I like to use shims as plant markers in the garden. A shim is a little sliver of wood about one foot long and two inches wide sold in hardware stores as something carpenters use to make doors and windows fit into their jambs properly. You can write on them with permanent marker and they will last for about a year.

Top off the new planting with a little more slow release fertilizer and layer one to three inches of fresh mulch over the new planting. More is not better; too much mulch will swamp the plant's new shoots and make it difficult for them to emerge. Use lightweight mulch - shredded wood, pine bark, pine straw and decomposing leaves are good choices - that will not form heavy mats on top of the plants.

When all is said and done give the plant a long and gentle drink of water to settle the soil. Throughout the plant's first growing season fertilize it regularly and water it when the soil is dry. You've taken the time to give your little babies the best start you can, now it's their turn to grow strong and make their mamma proud!