Van Dycks

Watering

Roses require a lot of water. Reduce the need for water by mulching and making a 'catch-basin'. Once roses are established, only water during very dry spells. For the first year, a good rule of thumb is about one gallon per foot per week. Roses that are dry heading into the winter will not fare out very well. Give a good soaking about 2-4 weeks before the ground freezes. It is better to give infrequent, deep watering than frequent, light watering. Avoid getting water on the leaves. Dry leaves prevent the spread of viral and fungal disease. Water early in the morning to allow the leaves to dry off before evening.

Most shrubs benefit from receiving at least 1" of water per week during the first season. Once established, most shrubs are quite drought tolerant, but are more productive and healthier if watered during dry spells.

Weeding

Keep the soil bare or mulched around roses and shrubs. Turf grasses and weeds are heavy competitors for water, nutrients and even sunlight. These mulched borders (shrub/tree circles) also protect new shrubs from grass-trimmer damage and will make it harder to accidentally mow them. These grass-free areas are especially important during the first 2-3 years, when the plant is becoming established. Organic mulches (shredded bark, bark nuggets, compost etc.) make weeding easier, retain moisture and look attractive.

Fertilizing

Ideally, most of the 'food' needed by roses and shrubs should come from the soil. A yearly topdressing of well-rotted manure or garden compost will keep the soil high in nutrients. Use a slow-release fertilizer designed for roses, or simply use an all-purpose, balanced water soluble fertilizer three times, in May, June and July. Fertilize more often with manure tea or fish emulsion if desired. If conditions are dry during fertilization period, give a good watering, then fertilize the next day. Do not fertilize after the end of July as the plants need this time without food to prepare for winter.

Pruning Roses

Every time a cut is made, it will affect the growth and overall health of the rose. All cuts, regardless of their reason, should be made in the same manner. Cuts should always be made at an angle, just above an outward facing bud. This directs the growth of the rose away from the center of the bush, preventing crossed and crowded branches, which can cause disease. All roses benefit from being pruned once a year. First, remove dead or dying, damaged branches, and the weaker of two stems that are rubbing against one another. This essential pruning can be done throughout the year as damage occurs. One-time flowering roses should be pruned only immediately following the blooming period. All other roses can be pruned either in the early spring or in the fall. Pruning in spring takes place when the leaves start to unfurl, before they are fully opened. The advantage to pruning in the early spring is that winter-killed stems can be removed at this time. Often, after pruning in the fall, roses will still need pruning. Pruning in fall takes place after the leaves fall off. The advantage to pruning in the fall is that there is a shorter bush to mulch, and there will be no swaying branches to be caught in the wind. Once the rosebush is three or four years old, it is a good idea to remove 1/4 to 1/3 of the oldest, thickest canes. Prune them off at ground level in the spring to stimulate the growth of new canes, which will produce more flowers. Prune tender roses down to 1' in the fall, or just remove the dead branches in the spring.

Suckers

Included in the pruning regime, attention should be taken to remove 'suckers'. Suckers are unwanted growth coming from the rootstock. Check to see if the rose is on its own root. If it is not, any shoots coming from below the bud union will not have the characteristics of the rose itself and should be removed. They will be characteristic of the rootstock rose, which, if left, may eventually take over as the rootstock rose is often a more vigourous growing rose. Watch for suckers on top grafted tree roses as well. Remove any growth from below the bud union.

Deadheading

Deadheading is by no means necessary, but it will result in more blooms, and in one-time flowering roses, will improve the appearance of the rose. Deadheading is the removal of spent blooms. To deadhead properly, make the diagonal cut down to the first outward facing full leaf (a full leaf will have five leaflets). With Floribundas, cut off the whole cluster of blooms at once. Do not deadhead after August; the production of seed helps to prepare the rose for dormancy. Of course, many varieties, especially Rugosas, are known for producing abundant hips. If you want hips, do not deadhead.

Pruning Shrubs

The above guidelines usually apply to pruning shrubs as well. Please also refer to the individual information for each specific shrub starting on page 44 Flowering shrubs can have faded flowers removed anytime after blooming.

Fall Care

Ideally, all fallen leaves should be cleaned up. Destroy any diseased leaves to prevent over-wintering of fungal and viral diseases. Water heavily a few weeks before the ground freezes unless it has been a very wet fall. This could be anywhere from October to December, depending on when winter arrives in the planting location.

Winter Care

All grafted roses, no matter how hardy, should ideally have the bud union buried. After a few good frosts, mound garden soil (taken from elsewhere in the garden) up over the bud union, at least 2" deep, or 4" in very cold zones. The bud union may have been buried at the time of planting. Many roses are very hardy, but if they are in a very exposed site, or if the garden is in a very cold zone, provide winter protection. Tender roses must be protected during the cold winter months. It is a good idea to protect Brownell, Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, tender Climbing Roses, Miniature Roses, English Roses, and Polyantha Roses this way anywhere. In colder zones this may be tried with the hardier roses as well, especially the first winter. After a few good frosts, mound soil over each bush to at least 9" above the level of the soil. Bring this soil from elsewhere in the garden: do not use soil from around the rose. If possible, shovel fresh snow over tender plants. Snow is an excellent insulator, but do not use hard snow, or snow that has salt in it. If there is a wet, heavy snowfall, remove snow from branches as much as possible to prevent breaking. After the ground has frozen, cover with 6" of straw, corn stalks, or any other coarse material. This is to keep the ground frozen and to avoid early thaws and flash freezes in late winter. As soon as the weather warms in spring, remove straw and extra soil gradually.

Flowering shrubs, trees or vines which are marginally hardy in the planting area should be protected the same way a tender rose is protected.

Climbing Roses

These roses have very long growing canes with many side branches. Plant the roses 6' apart. Plant hardy climbing roses in the same manner as other roses. The canes can be trained to grow upright on poles, fences, stone walls or trellises. Tie canes to the support with a soft, flexible material that will not damage the canes. For the first 2-3 seasons, prune only to remove deadwood. In future years prune repeat bloomers like 'William Baffin' and 'Henry Kelsey' in early spring when they are dormant. Hardy climbers such as these need not be removed from the trellis in the fall. Mound soil over the crown for winter protection in a very cold zone. More tender climbers such as 'Don Juan' and 'Golden Showers' may be removed from the trellis (a thorny business!), laid flat and covered with soil for the winter. Alternatively, they can be wrapped in burlap and stuffed with straw.

Rose Hedges

Many Rugosas or Explorer roses make excellent informal hedges. Some favorites are 'FJ Grootendoorst', 'The Hunter', 'John Davis', 'Adelaide Hoodless', 'Blanc Double de Coubert', 'Champlain', 'Bonica' and 'Therese Bugnet'. Rose hedges should be pruned in early spring when dormant. Remove stray branches at any time. Be sure to keep the base of hedges wider than the top to allow light to reach the bottom stems. Generally, space plants 1/2-2/3 the mature plant width apart, depending on how fast the hedge should fill in.

Shrub Hedge

Any shrub or small tree can be used to make a hedge, but of course some are better than others. Spireas make excellent, fast growing, low to medium-height hedges, as do forsythia and Potentilla. Lilacs, Weigelas, and Burning Bush can also be used. Make selection based on how tall the hedge should be, how fast it should grow, and of course, what kind of look you want. Generally space plants 1/2-2/3 the mature plant width apart, depending on how fast the hedge will fill in.

Growing Roses in Containers

Many roses bloom all season and are perfect for growing in containers. Even miniature roses can be grown in window boxes or hanging baskets. Add cascading lobelia or ivy to the pots for a breathtaking display. Remember to check moisture levels every day. Large pots will not dry out as fast. Use good quality potting soil, not garden soil. Fertilize every week with a balanced water-soluble fertilizer at 1⁄4 the recommended strength. Please keep in mind, however, that roses in containers are not winter hardy. At the end of the season protect potted roses for the winter. Roses can be transplanted into the garden about a month before soil freeze-up. Miniature roses may be brought indoors lots of light i supplied. Alternatively, provide winter protection by either burying pots in the garden and covering the tops with leaves or straw, or store pots in an unheated garage or basement. Make sure they are watered well before storage and that the temperature remains close to 32°F without freezing.

Patio Tree, Standard and Weeping Standards Protection

These top grafted roses require special winter protection in most climates. If they are grown in pots (minimum of 16" in diameter), store the potted plants in a cold, but frost-free room/building for the winter. (See above for information on growing roses in containers) If planted in the garden, either pry the root ball out of the ground and lay the standard flat and mound with soil, or dig a trench in a vegetable garden and bury the standard flat, about 6-8" deep. Wrap the standard in burlap to help keep it clean if desired. Prune top, bushy part of tree rose to maintain a uniform rounded or symmetrical shape. When planted either in the garden or in containers, be sure to protect the standard from strong winds and use a strong stake.